From the top of Citlal into the Blue Hole !

Before we hit Belize and the Blue Hole, we had enjoyed 2 ½ happy months in Mexico.
Lentamente, señor!
Rápidamente arriba, señora!

                                                                                                  ALL RIGHT!

              in the foot of Popo

In Mexico, one of the many highlights were the 4 highest volcanoes: Nevado de Toluca, Iztaccíhuatl, Popocatépetl and Citlaltépetl.
All of them are huge monsters and each of them has its own beauty.

Nevado de Toluca is the easiest of those 4 mountains to climb. A dirty road leads up to 1 mile below the summit. Then you continue on your own. You hike 1 mile and you can reach the top in an hour. The summit is a huge crater with the lake in it.

We didn't climb Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. We wanted to save our strength for the biggest of them all.
We just visited the
Tlamaca observation station at the foot of Popo. Nobody can trespass that point anyway. Popo has been closed for the last 4 years, it's active, smoking and emitting dangerous gases.


Citlaltépetl (Pico the Orizaba - "mountain of the star") is a horse of a different color!
Its superior height - 5,747m (18,856 feet) makes this magnificent glaciated volcano the most challenging and attractive of them all.
From the very first moment we saw it, we wanted to reach the summit of this monster.

At first we were a bit naive, thinking we could ascend without climbing equipment. Soon we had realized we had to return to the nearest village Tlachichuca, to rent ice axes, crampons, rope, boots and other necessities. In Tlachichuca we've met Rob, who came to climb Citlal too and decided to climb with us. All 3 of us motored in our car 'Milos' on dirty roads through the steep hills to Indian colony - Hidalgo (elev. 3,000m). We had spent a night in Hidalgo the day before, that's why we've already had two friends over there - Carlos & Olga, who kept an eye on our 'Milos'
and the biggest adventure of our life have begun.

Citlal, as we've seen it on the way up from Hidalgo to the base camp Piedra Grande  ®

   Citlal in the morning before it disappears in the clouds

 


" Rápidamente arriba ! "

 

  We had started hiking from Hidalgo (3,000m) to the base camp Piedra Grande (4,260m) pretty late. Our backpacks were heavy, it was crazy and took longer than we thought. We got lost and long after dark, around 10PM - after 6 hours of exhausting hiking, we finally found and reached Piedra Grande. At the small cabin we met 2 cool guys from Greece - Katerine & Vasily, who didn't reach the summit, they were frozen to the bones and eager for a cigarette. We've got an idea what is waiting for us.

Here are some notes from our journal:

Monday, July 20, 1998 - We spent a whole day in Piedra Grande, resting, sleeping and preparing ourselves for tomorrow's climb. Paja was looking for his lost ice axe.
It was hard to fall asleep at night; it was freezing!!!
Tuesday, July 21, 1998 - We got up at 00.30 AM. It was really cold. We packed, drank hot tea and at 1:30 AM started to climb. On the way up, climbing was harder and harder. We wanted to reach summit, but it was so cold and also it was harder and harder to find any rational reason to torture ourselves so much.
Rob could climb up faster, so he did go ahead. The distance between us was increasing, we could see his flashlight from time to time.
We prayed for the sun to rise. It was endless. Zdenka lost one of her crampons, Paja was using his fingers in place of his ice axe. We didn't have proper clothing (socks instead of gloves).
It was 14° F (-10°C).
We could see the summit, but there was no oxygen or strength to carry through.
Finally the sun rolled out. It was a shot in the arm and we didn't give up!
We ascended slowly until we reached the summit at 8:30 AM.
We stood at the top of Citlaltépetl (Pico de Orizaba), the highest mountain in Mexico - 5,747 m (18,856 feet).

The wind was kicking!
The wind was fuckin' kicking, we could hardly stand up!
We couldn't believe what was happening; we had teardrops in our eyes.
We did it! Nothing else matters.

 

Finally sun was rolling out of Gulf of Mexico The wind was kicking!

 

"out of gas, but felt like sitting on the top of the world"

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